Here's the latest Zombicide models I've painted for a client in Singapore! Must say I was pretty flattered when he chose me for the commission, as I'm sure there are plenty of miniature painters a lot close to him than Ireland!
Sadly the photographs don't do these models justice but the overall effect is there. My D60 is out of commission at the mo, in for repair and a much needed clean, so I had to make do with the wife's ipad... and it's a bit awkard trying to take pics with that thing to say the least. Or maybe me and technology just don't mix and I should just stick to painting. :)
In the past I've kept the bases pretty simple; a road tarmac effect with a simple black edge or the added on Dark Age deep bases, but this time around, as per the client's request, I painted the edges of the bases the appropriate designated colours of the Survivors and Zombivors. And I have to admit it looks pretty darn cool. Definitely makes them stand out a little more and will be easier to pick out on the gaming table.
Anyway who's excited for season 2!? I've got a whole horde of them on order and I'm hoping we get the "dispatched" notices this week and with a bit of luck be able to get painting by the beginning of September. I'm looking forward to the new sculpts of the zombies, that's not to say I'm not excited for the characters - but there are sooooo many to chose from - and since you have to paint more zombies that characters it'll be nice to have more variety.
Oh and yes, I am already accepting commissions for season 2 - so if you were thinking of getting your models painted you'd better get in before the rush if you want them painted before Christmas!
Showing posts with label Board Games. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Board Games. Show all posts
Sunday, August 25, 2013
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
Latest wave of Zombies
And OMG Season 2 is just around the corner! O.o
From set #1 Survivors and Zombivors
Kickstarter optionals:
A client of ours also made a video of the Zombicide models we painted up for him, he also posts gameplay videos too - check his channel out Lycan oftheunderworld:
Tuesday, May 28, 2013
Part 2: Project Ramblings from MrsMiniK
So, I have another project to share with you that I recently completed. After dabbling with the two Super Dungeon Explore promo models I decided to try my hand at one of the small expansion boxes: Rock Top Gang (Jay went for the Denizens). Don't worry non SDE fans, I'll be featuring something else next time...I have some Corsairs and Wood Elves in the pipeline. ;)The Rock Top models themselves are nice to work with, although some of the mould lines are really annoying to remove, and I got Jay to help with some of that. These models also require you to fill in the gaps in the bases, so I did that with a bit of green stuff - it didn't take too long, but it does add on a bit of extra time before you can spray them with a base coat.
In the meantime I had to come up with a colour scheme. I knew right away I didn't want the turtles to be overly garish or vibrant and so I decided to go with a more muted, earthy-ish vibe, which I think suits the lil turtle dudes what with all their rockbits and nubbins.
I do mix my paints alot so I can't tell you the exact ratios...I just go with the flow, but here are the colour palettes I used (Foundry paints unless otherwise stated):
Crusher:
Skin
- Royal Purple
- Quagmire
- Shadow Pink
Shell & Nails
- Quagmire
- Royal Purple
- GW Wash mix of Baal Red & Asuremen Blue
Eyes (all turtles)
- Phlegm Green
- GW Black
Bellies (all turtles)
- Phlegm Green
- GW Wash Azure Blue
Rollers:
Skin
- Storm Blue
- Deep Blue
Shells
- Quagmire
- Slate Grey
- Storm Blue
- GW Wash Azure Blue
Slowpokes & tokens:
Skin
- Storm Green
Shells
- Quagmire
- Storm Green
- GW wash Biel-tan
So that's enough chit chat, here are the pics. Enjoy :)

Monday, May 6, 2013
ZOMBICIDE: Re-basing
Zombicide! It's Popularity keeps on increasing. With over three million funding during two Kickstarter projects the number of zombies produced will, this September, reach epidemic proportions. This is in part due to the fantastically generous Coolminiornot Kickstarter projects, they haven't ceased to provide a bucket full of models for anyone purchasing their game publications through Kickstarter. Anyone simply investing in both seasons of Zombicide could probably swim in a vault filled with zombie miniatures Scrooge McDuck style (though I found it was not as fun as it looked).
But I am here to talk about basing, or rather re-basing. As an old time wargamer and painter I am unshakably aware of the impact decent basing can have on a model. This is no less true for miniature boardgames, the atmosphere and investment in such a game is highly dependant on the pieces you are pushing around. You can weight up the urgency of shooting a grey lump of plastic to shooting a crazed rotten zombie dripping with blood, his lifeless yet fierce eyes bearing down on you, hungry for any taste of your flesh. To take it one step further, the imminent danger posed by a crazed rotten zombie stood on grey plastic is perhaps less than one stood on the same patch of tarmac as your alter ego survivor. Obviously there is only subtle shades of realism involved, but the more visual indicators the greater the experience must be, consciously or otherwise.
Besides, some of the bases are utterly wobbly and just a pain to keep upright. From the get go I coated Zombicide bases in fine sand to provide a subtle texture that was painted in greys for an urban look. But had always considered fully re-basing the models. Unfortunately this is hampered, as the model and base for these figures is all one piece. Removing any one of these models is difficult and potentially disastrous re-basing any quantity of these models was a terrifying prospect in terms of time and modelling. So I wanted to base the models to look consistent and professional while maintaining the structural integrity of the models.
But don't fret, the answer is at hand!
Strangely enough the answer also appears to be produced by Coolminiornot, or at least produced in conjunction with Coolmini for Dark Age. So step forward ye delightful Dark Age 30mm Deep Bases. While these may be similar in overall design to Warmachine (they are in fact subtitled as such) and many other rounded 30 mm bases, they differ enough to be absolutely perfect for Zombicide.
The Zombicide models do not fit inside the top of a Warmachine base as their base is larger than the indent, even if you were to trim it the Zombicide base it would protrude noticeably. However the entire disc of a Zombicide model base fits inside the indent of these deep bases with unerring accuracy. \o/
The fit is so ideal the models can almost snap-fit into place. With a touch of glue (Polycement was used in this instance, rigid plastic or super glue would likely also do the job) an entire set of Zombicide can be based in minutes.
While the bases can be easily glued I wanted to ensure that any of the troublesome and wobbly bases were completed levelled. With the help of a few Bullclips each models bases could be viced in place while the glue would weld securely; I just left them overnight.
I ensured that the Zombicide bases were textured and painted (including the edging) before attaching them. This kept the rounded bases pristine as new avoiding any undercoating, paint, or basing materials. The level and flat stability these bases provide is a joy on the boardgame. Although, I have yet to test if a full Zombie swarm might be oversized for the board since packs of zombies form on certain street sections. I also need to test the larger 40mm Deep Base, the Abomination look fantastic on these! Photos of them coming soon.
So here we have my latest almost finished painted Survivors (last minute details & shading needed) including shiny bases! Hopefully this will help peeps out there who were considering re-basing but wasn't sure how to go about it. These bases will also feature as a option on my price list for any future Zombicide commissions.
Labels:
Basing,
Board Games,
survivors,
tutorial,
Zombicide
Monday, April 29, 2013
Super Dungeon Explore
This is a game that intrigued me from the get go with its super stylized characters and monsters. Love it or hate it, the chibi style of characterisation always puts a fun and endearing twist on its subject matter and in the case of a dungeon crawler board game a much needed breath of fresh air. Of course, any big box of miniatures is expensive and I had never had the opportunity to get my hands on these models before now. So when I saw the release of the latest expansion with perhaps the best set models that had been produced I went ahead with the investment.
I was still not entirely happy with the outcome of my removal of the mould lines and so turned to an additional fantastic solution for smoothing things out: Liquid Green Stuff. For such work, this can simply be painted on with a brush (clean well in water afterwards!) over any moulding indiscretions. It can be applied in a couple of coats and also filed down smoother when dried depending how fancy you want to get. In this case the initial texture created by the brush strokes worked well enough for the surfaces in question: rough stone, bestial fur, aged metal and bone.
The one other matter before undercoating are the holes in the bases, they are slotta bases which are rarely covered or filled by the model which leaves unsightly gaps. I filled this with DAS air dried modelling clay which I had handy, a much more affordable and quicker alternative to green stuff for the simplest of jobs. This was just pushed into the gaps with the help of a flat sculpting tool and left to dry.
Of course, none of this preparation is essential by any means but the more time invested the better the models may look.
Another texture to complete on mass was the metals I wanted the metals to look a little duller and more aged than normal so I used a dark brown (Bay Brown) and dark bluish grey (Slate Gray Shade) as a base coat for the steel and brass. The metallics were painted patchily over this base coat, to emphasize the old armor, with a far shinier metallic used for specular high lights.
The larger models can easily be daunting and in this set Nocturne and Van Wilder are large beastly figures with a hefty expanse of flesh/fur tone. My method for these types of models, is using a large brush and with a lot of different mixes of paints on my palette, I blend and highlight these areas while wet, which is easier than you might expect - don't be afraid to just go for it! All too often if you try to paint these areas with layered highlights glaring brush strokes will appear, which is not the look I was after. Plus you can work quicker and more freely with subtle mixes of colour over still wet coats of paint for an agreeable, and in this case, a supernatural/deathly effect.
You may be starting to see the colour motif I incorporated throughout this set. From looking at the box and card art there are a lot of colours with glowing purples, greens and oranges. I quickly decided to minimize this for a far more coherent and distinctive look so this purple and blue scheme was born and carried through all of the evil minions. From glowing blue eyes, gems, and candles to blue patterns and even frogs. This theme is only really broken by the pumpkin, though I very nearly painted this purple also (the wife persuaded me otherwise!), but it does at least contain a blue candle.
I hope you enjoyed this post - this project was a bit of a deviation from the more traditional models I usually paint, but it was fun nonetheless. Look out for a future post on more painted Super Dungeon Models which Emma will be taking on once they arrive!
Preparation
The models for Super Dungeon Explore come pre-assembled. This is a benefit for most purchasers but can make the removal of mould lines a little trickier and clean up on these models is already tricky given the material they are produced in. The softer, waxy plastic can not be filed away and use of a knife can easily dig into the plastic. So removing any mould lines really needs the tip of a nice sharp scalpel and plenty of patience.I was still not entirely happy with the outcome of my removal of the mould lines and so turned to an additional fantastic solution for smoothing things out: Liquid Green Stuff. For such work, this can simply be painted on with a brush (clean well in water afterwards!) over any moulding indiscretions. It can be applied in a couple of coats and also filed down smoother when dried depending how fancy you want to get. In this case the initial texture created by the brush strokes worked well enough for the surfaces in question: rough stone, bestial fur, aged metal and bone.
The one other matter before undercoating are the holes in the bases, they are slotta bases which are rarely covered or filled by the model which leaves unsightly gaps. I filled this with DAS air dried modelling clay which I had handy, a much more affordable and quicker alternative to green stuff for the simplest of jobs. This was just pushed into the gaps with the help of a flat sculpting tool and left to dry.
Of course, none of this preparation is essential by any means but the more time invested the better the models may look.
Painting
This won't be a labourious step by step painting guide for now but just a snippets of perhaps the more interesting work done.
As always when painting anything as a large set I looked for any predominant colours or textures that appeared across most of the models. In this case with the assortment of skeletons and other deathly visages the bone was my first port of call. By completing this on mass for all models it would keep it very consistent. I also knew this would involve a few stages of dry brushing for that dusty aged bone look so completing this first allowed freedom with the brush without interfering with anything else that may have been painted on the model.
Foundry's Boneyard palette is quite ideal for a lot of bone effects, but I wanted a more neutral tone overall so I swapped the Boneyard Shade with Drab Shade for my base colour.
A quick run down of the stages used:

Drab Shade - Base coat
Boneyard - Heavy dry brush over all the model
Boneyard Light - Targeted dry brush of the highest areas
Boneyard Light - Painted high light for edges
As always when painting anything as a large set I looked for any predominant colours or textures that appeared across most of the models. In this case with the assortment of skeletons and other deathly visages the bone was my first port of call. By completing this on mass for all models it would keep it very consistent. I also knew this would involve a few stages of dry brushing for that dusty aged bone look so completing this first allowed freedom with the brush without interfering with anything else that may have been painted on the model.
Foundry's Boneyard palette is quite ideal for a lot of bone effects, but I wanted a more neutral tone overall so I swapped the Boneyard Shade with Drab Shade for my base colour.
A quick run down of the stages used:

Drab Shade - Base coat
Boneyard - Heavy dry brush over all the model
Boneyard Light - Targeted dry brush of the highest areas
Boneyard Light - Painted high light for edges
Another texture to complete on mass was the metals I wanted the metals to look a little duller and more aged than normal so I used a dark brown (Bay Brown) and dark bluish grey (Slate Gray Shade) as a base coat for the steel and brass. The metallics were painted patchily over this base coat, to emphasize the old armor, with a far shinier metallic used for specular high lights.
The larger models can easily be daunting and in this set Nocturne and Van Wilder are large beastly figures with a hefty expanse of flesh/fur tone. My method for these types of models, is using a large brush and with a lot of different mixes of paints on my palette, I blend and highlight these areas while wet, which is easier than you might expect - don't be afraid to just go for it! All too often if you try to paint these areas with layered highlights glaring brush strokes will appear, which is not the look I was after. Plus you can work quicker and more freely with subtle mixes of colour over still wet coats of paint for an agreeable, and in this case, a supernatural/deathly effect.
![]() |
| "He looks like he's bowling" - Mrs MK |
You may be starting to see the colour motif I incorporated throughout this set. From looking at the box and card art there are a lot of colours with glowing purples, greens and oranges. I quickly decided to minimize this for a far more coherent and distinctive look so this purple and blue scheme was born and carried through all of the evil minions. From glowing blue eyes, gems, and candles to blue patterns and even frogs. This theme is only really broken by the pumpkin, though I very nearly painted this purple also (the wife persuaded me otherwise!), but it does at least contain a blue candle.
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| Gruesome enough eyeball I hope. |
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| It may be rude to point, the baron don't care. |
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| Has to be noted that Mrs Minikingdom stepped in to paint the faces on the witches and their broomcats. To great effect as you can see! |
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| An eye colour change for Van Wilding, there were enough browns on the model already, artistic license ensued. |
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| Brightly coloured frogs are known to be poisonous, beware. Also "Ribbit" |
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| Blue candle glows blue (to be said five times quickly). |
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| The celestial herald definitely the most vibrant model in the set. |
I hope you enjoyed this post - this project was a bit of a deviation from the more traditional models I usually paint, but it was fun nonetheless. Look out for a future post on more painted Super Dungeon Models which Emma will be taking on once they arrive!
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